1. Kawasaki Zx10 2018 Fault Code List
2. Kawasaki Zx10 2018 Fault Code Diagram
3. Kawasaki Zx10 2018 Fault Code 6

Hi, Mike for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Answered on Oct 07, 2018.

Hi, Cedricjenkin for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.

Answered on Sep 05, 2018. Hi, Anonymous if your headlight is not working, only one beam works, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your headlight bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to headlight bulb socket.2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.3. Worn, chafed, or broken wires in the light circuit.4.

Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.5. Faulty hi-low beam switch.6. Faulty ignition switch.7.

Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.8. Faulty headlight relay.9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.10.

Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Answered on Aug 31, 2018. Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Answered on Jul 19, 2018.

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on May 04, 2018. Hi, Jj for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on May 02, 2018. Hi, Quentinfield it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed.

That being said the usual suspects are:1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.5.

Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.6.

Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. Exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component etc.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Apr 09, 2018. Hi, James13279 it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures.

Kawasaki Zx10 2018 Fault Code List

It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed.

That being said the usual suspects are:1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.4.

Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. Exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component etc.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Mar 20, 2018.

Hi, Dmaher1100 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Mar 20, 2018. Hi, Yonboi13 it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.2.

Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. Exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component etc.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below.

Good luck and have a wonderful day.Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Mar 20, 2018. Hi, Ridenred1987 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below.

Good luck and have a wonderful day.Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Mar 20, 2018. Hi, Magandrews and the usual suspects are:1.

Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.8.

Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.9. Dirty air filter.10.

Intake air leak.11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.13. Carburetor has oil in the bowl due to excessive oil in pre-mix.14. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.15. Multiple carburetors out of sync.16.

Kawasaki Zx10 2018 Fault Code Diagram

Fuel filter clogged.17. Old or contaminated fuel.18. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.19. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.20.

Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.21. Carburetor controls misadjusted.22. Incorrect valve timing.23. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.24. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.25.

Kawasaki Zx10 2018 Fault Code 6

Incompatible performance parts.26. The control module may be in 'LIMP' mode27.

Check for engine trouble codes.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Mar 20, 2018. Hi, Marksmadhou and the usual suspects are:1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.4.

Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.9.

Dirty air filter.10. Intake air leak.11.

Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.13. Carburetor has oil in the bowl due to excessive oil in pre-mix.14. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.15. Multiple carburetors out of sync.16.

Fuel filter clogged.17. Old or contaminated fuel.18. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.19. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.20.

Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.21. Carburetor controls misadjusted.22. Incorrect valve timing.23. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.24. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.25. Incompatible performance parts.26.

The control module may be in 'LIMP' mode27. Check for engine trouble codes.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below.

Good luck and have a wonderful day.Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Mar 20, 2018. Hi, Gsf1200s before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is 'IMPERATIVE' that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.1. Ignition Switch not in the 'ON' position.2. Engine Run Switch in the 'OFF' position.3.

Engine Run Switch is 'FAULTY' or corroded.4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.6.

FOB battery low or dead.7. Faulty ignition switch.8. Faulty starter button.9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.10. Security alarm needs a reset.11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.12.

Starter armature or field coils have failed.13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.14. Faulty ignition relay.15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.16.

Check for engine trouble codes.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Mar 20, 2018. Hi, Socalcyclesa for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Mar 20, 2018.